Henri Boillot Clos de la Mouchere 1er Cru 2018 versus Jean Dauvissat Montmains 1er Cru 2018

  Bok's Rating:

Henri Boillot Clos de la Mouchere 1er Cru 2018 versus Jean Dauvissat Montmains 1er Cru 2018
9.5 stars
30 Mar 2021

Henri Boillot Clos de la Mouchere is my go-to wine when it comes to 1er Cru level white burgundies, as I have full faith with it’s quality that year in, year out it has never failed me with very reliable quality.

Meanwhile, Jean Dauvissat Montmains 1er Cru is a new found love from Chablis, and I recently rated it 9.5 stars, thus I want to put two of them together for a showdown. It’s like Floyd Mayweather vs Conor McGregor, the biggest money fight. A whiff of both and one can tell Clos de la Mouchere has the winning poise, with loads of expression, while the Montmains was shy and muted.

A sip and it’s already a KO punch thrown by Clos de la Mouchere, as the acidity was so prominent, and the fruits were so jammed packed with solid elements, not for the faint-hearted. Montmains was able to match the acidity but the fruits could not be on par with Clos de la Mouchere. However, not all were lost for Montmains, it still put up a strong fight as the content difference wasn’t so big. The counter punch from Montmains came when the wines warmed up slightly. Somehow the Clos de la Mouchere “disintegrated” with it’s flavor and style, while Montmains maintained a very good composure, still able to throw good punches.

I couldn’t pick a winner, as both are solid fighters in their own way. A well deserving truce to end the showdown.

Batard Montrachet Tasting

  Bok's Rating:

Batard Montrachet Tasting
6-Feb-2021
9.5 stars

I have called for a Batard Montrachet tasting about a year ago, but due to the pandemic, we deferred it till a year later to have it. Thank goodness all of us still can participate in this tasting. Everyone happily contributed a bottle or more to make today’s tasting a truly eventful tasting. These are the lineups of the bottles featured, of which I organized them in relevant flights at my own discretion:

Flight 1
Lucien Le Moine 2010
Bachelet Monnot 2016
Paul Pernot 2016

Lucien Le Moine was a bit cheezy on the bouquet, along with pleasant approach and relatively high acidity, carried a bit of lime and bitterness. My favorite was the Bachelet Monnot on this flight, surprisingly didn’t really reveal the youthfulness of this wine, very mellow, matured and relatively complex, sharp and focused. Paul Pernot was a disappointment with very dense fruits and low acidity. Overall, the Bachelet Monnot was the favorite for this flight. The Connoisseurs summarized this flight aptly; the quality wasn’t quite Batard Montrachet, but rather a good premier cru standard.

Flight 2
Leflaive 2009
Leflaive 2008
Leflaive 2007

It was with luck and like-mindedness that we get a sequential flight of Leflaive to compose this flight, without duplication of vintages! It was truly stunning flight. When I nosed the 2009, I swear it was at Montrachet level, with ultra elegance. Palate was even nicer, so beautiful and elegant, definitely a Montrachet standard with very high quality represented. However, the 2008 took the lime light with everything that 2009 possessed, with more. Very expressive. Overwhelming attendees voted this as the flight’s favorite. The 2007 wasn’t disappointing with good acidity, but somehow lacked elegance of 2009 and depth of 2008, a bit stony.

Flight 3
Leflaive 1997
Ramonet 1999
Ramonet 2013

Color of Leflaive 1997 was overly yellowish, but it wasn’t a pre-mox bottle, just too ripe and advanced for it’s age. It still possessed very good acidity, however, character was quite different from the previous flight of Leflaive, somehow lacked elegance, though with rich mellowness. Ramonet 1999 was surprisingly possessing low acidity, but it more than made up by it’s rich and matured style, with heavy density of fruits in the body. Ramonet 2013 was very characteristics of Ramonet, one can tell on the bouquet of the unique spearmint, with ocean freshness. Body was fresh, perky, energetic, and one can associate the 2013 with the 1999 as it was almost similar style, except 1999 was with age. Ramonet 2013 took the lime light in this flight with majority voted for it. However, my favorite was the 1999.

Flight 4

(double blind contributed by two connoisseurs, each contribute two bottles)
Vincent Girardin 2006
Louis Latour 1989
Jean Noel Gagnard 2004
Nicholas Potel Les Combettes 1990 (slightly out of theme but the point is proven)

Our friend placed a ringer into this flight without telling us, obviously violating the theme, but given his status, we can forgive him for his blatant violation. The outcome was great, majority voted for this Nicholas Potel’s Les Combettes 1990 as the best wine of the flight. Obviously possessing age, with bouquet of straw. It expressed itself as a deep, rich and old-fashioned white burgundy, sink deep into the palate, very enjoyable. Vincent Girardin’s 2006 was a bit of a trouble maker, slightly sour, clean and sharp, youthful. Louis Latour’s 1989 was ripe, mellow and elegant, with a coating of caramel and pop-corn, another old fashion classic winemaking style. Jean Noel Gagnard’s 2004 was filled with loads of elegance, mellow, never overpowering, pristine and pure taste, deserved the best runner up of the flight.

Summary


Let me put the Master of Wine’s words into perspective when I asked whether there’s a unique characteristic for Batard Montrachet? Our MW’s firm answer is – there is no definitive characteristics, they are all dependent upon winemaker’s style.

And this statement summarizes this tasting that I concur with his opinion that there is no definitive character for Batard Montrachet, each and every winemaker’s style is different, and the outcome of the content is also different. Thus, don’t bother trying to second guess a bottle of Batard Montrachet, I think it’s almost impossible to do that. Although one maybe able to tell the solid content from Leflaive’s Batard Montrachet that it possesses very solid content, and very classic winemaking style, that one is able to tell it’s a high-quality wine.

Enjoy! Article Written by Wine by Bok

 

Jean Dauvissat Chablis versus Claire 2018

  Bok's Rating:

Jean Dauvissat Chablis versus Claire 2018
9.0 stars
11 Feb 2021

I always enjoy comparing wines next to each other, especially wines coming from the same winemaker. The grape of these two wines come from almost the same 40 parcel of land Jean Dauvissat owns. The only difference was that Claire was aged in demi-muits (oak barrels of 500 litres) while their Chablis only went through malolactic fermentation. Otherwise the vinification is almost the same. While the wine is chilled, Claire has got better acidity and flavor, while Chablis has more fruity taste. It was a great match, as the swing of vote goes between the two wines back and forth, until I finished the two bottles. My final vote was Claire winning by a hair line, as it gives slightly more complexity compared to the Chablis.

Jean Dauvissat Chablis Heritage versus 1er Cru Fourchaume 2018

  Bok's Rating:

Jean Dauvissat Chablis Heritage versus 1er Cru Fourchaume 2018

9.25 stars

13 Feb 2021

If you have read my previous notes on Jean Dauvissat’s Heritage, which was a village level wine, I often put it in the category of 1er Cru as I think it has a complexity as well as addictive acidity that can easily put itself in a 1er Cru league. Thus, tonight it was a heads on clash and put this debate to rest. Heritage benefited from Vielles Vignes (old vines), as these vines were planted about 60 years ago, and they have very deep roots, thus resulting in very strong minerality for the wine. Fourchaume is usually quite a feminine parcel, with floral notes and very aromatic and a body of nutty and steely notes. Frankly, serving the wines while still chilled, it was no way to tell which was the better wine, it was again back and forth fighting for attention. Only when the wine warmed up slightly, one can tell that the Fourchaume won by a hair line, as it really benefited with some buttery taste (from 12 months aging in oak) and feminine style. For the price difference, I’d rather drink Heritage.

Jean Dauvissat Chablis Cuvee Claire 2018

  Bok's Rating:

Jean Dauvissat Chablis Cuvee Claire 2018

8.75 stars

28 Feb 2021

Last night’s tasting of Jean Dauvissat Claire versus Heritage, it was of two extreme end. I can summarize here in a sentence, it was two octave down from Heritage, all things being equal. This one truly belonged to the village level. Bouquet of typical Chablis of lemon juice and lemon skin. Content does have decent acidity, unfortunately I didn’t quite like the presentation, it was a bit stony and Pomelo driven. For wines that cannot meet our expectation, we promise not to bring them in, as we have pride of bringing in wines that meets our strict criteria.

Jean Dauvissat Fourchaume 1er Cru Chablis 2018

  Bok's Rating:

Jean Dauvissat Fourchaume 1er Cru Chablis 2018

9.5 stars

2 March 2021

Fourchaume being one of the most famous 1er Cru plot of Chablis, I do have high expectations out of it. I still have some leftovers of Montmains, so it’s really good for comparison sake. It took me many sips to tell the difference. The bouquet was elegant with fruity flavors. Palate was with the usual great piercing acidity, although this wine is more feminine than Montmains, probably due to only 12 months maturation, thus it really gives a lively and indulging feeling, without too much coloration. Personally I prefer the Montmains but I’d take this Fourchaume anytime as well.

Jean Dauvissat Montmains 1er Cru Chablis 2018

  Bok's Rating:

Jean Dauvissat Montmains 1er Cru Chablis 2018

9.5 stars

1 Mar 2021

First time I had Chablis from this plot, was told that Montmains also covered some better known plots like Butteaux and Forets, so it has to be a respectable 1er Cru plot. Bouquet started with ocean breeze, but morphed into forest freshness. A sip and my eyes lit up, there was this piercing acidity that’s so lively and enjoyable, absolutely stunning start! As I slowly drink the remaining glass, I realize it has this Yin (acidity) and Yang (butter) character, the palate has this smooth buttery taste as well as great minerality, it’s really enjoyable to have the best of both combinations. I talked to the winemaker thereafter, he told me they pushed maturation to 24 months, and they will do the same for all other 1er Cru wines they produce starting 2019.

Clavelier Morey Saint Denis 2018

  Bok's Rating:

Clavelier Morey Saint Denis 2018
9.25 stars
15 Mar 2021

This was a big surprise to me as I was just expecting yet another red burgundy. Turned out to be really hedonistic wine! I suspect it’s probably the vintage in play, as the heat for 2018 was searing, resulting in the atypical ripeness and plushness. I decanted the wine for 2 hours before taking a sniff; powerful ripe cherries took me a step back, and I say it’s going to be a strong and powerful wine. But most of the time, there’s no correlation of bouquet and body. I was truly impressed with the first sip, the softness of the wine was very impressive, along with the very feminine character, makes this bottle in exceptional balance. The tannins are hardly detectable, and only surfaces on my final pour, and it wasn’t harsh tannins, in fact, very soft and forgiving. I’d highly recommend you to buy a bottle to try this fantastic label, which is quickly becoming very respectable.

page 1 of 3